Use a rope to hang your 5-gallon feeder over your spot, adjusted so the deer can reach up and nudge the can for feed. Drill ¼” hole through the side of the can in the middle, attach to end of the rod with nuts and washers.Secure the rod from the wooden bridge through the hole in the bucket, adjust the 2” washer so it’s about 1” below the hole.

Place 2” washer on the rod with ¼” washers and nuts on each side, double nuts on the lower side to keep it securely in position on the rod.

Drill a hole through the middle of the board aligned with the hole in the bucket, large enough to allow the rod to swing slightly, nail or screw 2” pieces to the end of the board as supports, place in bottom of the bucket.

Cut two 2” long sections off of the board then trim the board to fit across the bottom of the bucket (most 5-gallon buckets are 10.33” across at the bottom).

Cut a 1” wide hole in the bottom of the bucket.

One ¼”-20 all-thread rods (threaded along the whole length) about 36” long.

The feed is kept in the bucket until the can is moved by a washer slightly larger than the hole suspended on the rod an inch or so below the hole, just enough to keep the feed in the bucket until the rod is moved when a small amount of feed will drop to the ground. A large tin can is suspended from the bottom of the rod so the wind or nudging deer can cause the feed to fall from the hole. It uses a 5-gallon bucket to hold the feed, with a small hole cut into the bottom.Ī wooden bridge is fitted across the inside of the bucket about two inches from the bottom that suspends a length of an all-thread rod through the hole. You can also find pre-made drain caps at the store but make sure the holes are small enough to keep your feed in.Īnother easy-to-build and ridiculously affordable feeder. You can mount your new feeder to a tree with bungee cords, ratchet straps, or rope. The second eye-bolt will attach the lid to the pipe to keep the raccoons from raiding your feeder. Attach one eye-bolt in the top to use as a handle.

Take the end cap that will cover the top of the feeder and drill one hole in the center and one in the side, with a corresponding hole in the main pipe.

These will be used as strapping points to secure it to the tree.

Drill holes along the side of the pipe to attach eye-bolts.

Drill some holes for drainage in one of the end caps, primer and cement the inside edge, and attach it to the bottom of the Wye coupler.

Add cement to both pieces and attach them.

Primer the end of the pipe and one female end of the Wye coupler following the directions for use.

The longer it is, the less often you’ll have to fill it, but longer ones will be harder to reach to fill. Cut the 6” PVC pipe to the desired length.Several small eye-bolts (number depending on length).One PVC pipe of the desired length (at least 3’ and up to 10’) and 6” diameter.Deer will have no problem getting their snout into the pipe to retrieve the feed. It has a drain at the bottom to let out any rainwater that gets in to keep the feed from becoming moldy. You pour your corn or whatever feed you’re using into the top of the tube, and gravity keeps it moving downward as it gets eaten. This design is just what it says, all the materials can be bought at your local hardware store for $50 or less, and the only tools needed are a drill and a hacksaw.

Homemade deer feeder plans